Those are standard libraries included with the Arduino Core for ESP32. After you install the support using Arduino’s Boards Manager and select an ESP32-based board, the libraries should be available. For more information, see https://github.com/espressif/arduino-esp...
The project was originally built for a video sponsored by EmotiBit, a biometric wearable company. I decided it would be easier to write my own firmware from scratch than attempt to integrate WLED and EmotiBit. I think there’s actually a binding now, but it didn’t exist at the time. For what it’s worth, I actually do run WLED on my personal Chromance now.
The LED’s on each chain of strips are numbered such that LED 0 is connected directly to that chain’s GPIO pin, and the highest-numbered LED is the tail of the final strip in the chain. Unfortunately, there’s no way to automatically edit them, and I’ll admit that the way I structured them is complete nonsense. You’ll need to edit ledAssignments so the LED indices (second and third members of each row) correspond to how you wired them up.
Scissors are fine, and a sharp razor blade will also work. Just try to slice straight through the middle of the pads, so you leave enough metal on both strips to solder!
Those are standard libraries included with the Arduino Core for ESP32. After you install the support using Arduino’s Boards Manager and select an ESP32-based board, the libraries should be available. For more information, see https://github.com/espressif/arduino-esp...
The project was originally built for a video sponsored by EmotiBit, a biometric wearable company. I decided it would be easier to write my own firmware from scratch than attempt to integrate WLED and EmotiBit. I think there’s actually a binding now, but it didn’t exist at the time. For what it’s worth, I actually do run WLED on my personal Chromance now.
You can just drill a hole in the board or jump it over - as long as it’s securely fixed to the board and connected to the right traces, you’re fine.
You’ll need to put a RegularNode on the bottom so your can route the wires out of the bottom.
I added the arrow and confirmed that it’s now visible.
I’ll push my modified code after I fix some weird behavior with the starburst animation.
The LED’s on each chain of strips are numbered such that LED 0 is connected directly to that chain’s GPIO pin, and the highest-numbered LED is the tail of the final strip in the chain. Unfortunately, there’s no way to automatically edit them, and I’ll admit that the way I structured them is complete nonsense. You’ll need to edit ledAssignments so the LED indices (second and third members of each row) correspond to how you wired them up.
Good eye. I’ve fixed it, along with the same missing arrow in Step 6, Pic 1.
Scissors are fine, and a sharp razor blade will also work. Just try to slice straight through the middle of the pads, so you leave enough metal on both strips to solder!
Use a knife or Veroboard tool to cut the strips across the green lines.
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